Valentine's Splurge: Chocolate Desserts
CHOCOLATE has strange properties. Studies have shown that it contains phenylethylamine, a chemical stimulant, which is released by the brain in a passionate love affair. Perhaps that explains why so many people eat chocolate on Valentine's Day (conversely, those who fall out of love have lower levels of phenylethylamine, which may explain why they often go on a chocolate binge). In any event, there are few better ways to end a Valentine's Day dinner than with a dessert made from chocolate.
I like chocolate desserts that are fairly straightforward, and not too sweet. A dark, moist chocolate cake, unadorned by creams or icings, is one of my favorites. I also love a hot chocolate souffle, something I like to order in French restaurants when they have it on the menu. Making a hot souffle at home, however, is not difficult if you have a reliable oven. It is important to use egg whites at room temperature, since they will expand more when they are beaten and help the souffle rise. They should be whisked until they form glossy peaks, not over-beaten or over-folded, or the souffle will be flat. Care should also be taken when melting chocolate. It turns into a solid lump if the heat is too high. Melt it in a slow oven or a double boiler.
The classic French version of chocolate mousse uses raw egg yolks, which can be risky. In the recipe below the egg yolks are heated just enough to kill any bacteria before the mousse is chilled. And since Valentine's Day comes but once a year, there's no reason not to serve whipped cream. Chocolate Mousse Total time: 30 minutes 1 cup heavy cream 12 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces 4 large eggs at room temperature, separated 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract.
1. Heat the cream until small bubbles form around the edge.
2. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate in the upper container of a double boiler set over very hot water. Whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time, then whisk in the butter.
3. Gradually add the hot cream, whisking constantly. Turn up the heat so that the water in the bottom of the double boiler starts to simmer gently. Cook for four minutes, whisking constantly (the yolks are cooked at 160 degrees on a candy thermometer).
4. Remove the chocolate mixture from the heat and add the vanilla extract. Cool, stirring constantly for about five minutes.
5. Beat the egg whites until they stand up in glossy peaks. With a large rubber spatula, stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gradually fold in the rest.
6. Scrape the mousse into a large bowl or individual dishes. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until firm (about two hours for individual bowls and about five hours for a large mousse).
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Note: This is good with whipped cream. Hot Chocolate Souffle Total time: 1 hour Butter for greasing 5 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces 1/3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 5 eggs at room temperature, separated 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar 1 1/2 cups heavy cream, whipped (optional).
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. Butter a one-quart souffle dish or four eight-ounce souffle dishes.
3. Melt the chocolate in a double boiler and add the sugar and vanilla. Allow the mixture to cool.
4. Whisk the egg yolks until they are pale yellow. Gradually stir them into the warm (but not hot) chocolate. The recipe can be prepared ahead to this point.
5. Beat the egg whites until they stand up in glossy peaks. Stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then gradually fold in the rest.
6. Bake souffle in center of oven for about 25 minutes for a large souffle, about 10 minutes for smaller ones. Remove from oven, dust with confectioners' sugar and serve. Pass whipped cream separately.
Yield: 4 servings. Extra Rich Chocolate Cake Total time: 1 hour Butter for greasing 10 ounces semisweet chocolate, broken into pieces 2 tablespoons strong coffee 1/2 pound unsalted butter 1/2 cup granulated sugar 5 large eggs, separated 1/4 cup flour 2 teaspoons confectioners' sugar.
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a nine-and-a-half-inch springform pan or nonstick cake pan.
2. Melt the chocolate with the coffee, butter and granulated sugar in the top of a double boiler over gently simmering water. Stir until blended. Set the mixture aside, uncovered, to cool.
3. When the mixture has cooled, whisk the egg yolks into the chocolate one at a time. Add the flour and whisk until smooth.
4. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they stand up in stiff peaks. Add one-third of the egg white to the chocolate mixture. Fold them in carefully until blended. Fold in the remaining whites gently until there are no streaks left.
5. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for about 35 minutes, or until the cake is firm. A toothpick or skewer inserted into the cake about three inches from the center of the pan should come out clean (the cake should not be too dry). Cool on a rack before unmolding. Dust with confectioners' sugar before serving.
Yield: 10 to 12 servings.